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The Scene
This latest endeavor from the owners of popular Lure and Lever House restaurants re-imagines the 1940s Chinese banquet hall as downtown hot spot. Large parties of on-the-prowl singles focus their attention past ivory columns, ornately decorated screens and oversized red-and-white lanterns in hopes of glimpsing "Page Six" regulars. The see-and-be-seen coup? Two A-shaped doors leading to the kitchen, which create the impression of peering eyes. Service is pleasant, if a bit hovering.

The Food
Much like the special effects in a summer blockbuster, the whiz-bang scenery fills seats here more than the standard Chinese cuisine. Best bets from the dim sum menu are staples like a fluffy pork bun, rather than pricier items like the fried blue-crab claw that comes in a single portion. Peking duck is appropriately savory and crispy, but costs what your entire meal might in Chinatown, while the ginger flavor in the steamed branzino barely registers. Noodle dishes fare best: Try the one with "essence of mushroom," loaded with thick, fragrant shiitakes.

Insider Tips
What to Drink
Cocktails like the Ginger Dragon are mixed on the sweet side. Order instead from the sizable wine list, conveniently divided into sections like "crisp" and "fruity."

Where to Sit
Can't get a table? Try the downstairs lounge, just past the koi pond, which serves a limited, dim sum-heavy menu.

The Extras
Skip the disappointing desserts and take a five-minute walk to one of the bakeries in the real Chinatown.